Do not stand at my grave and weep. I am not there, I do not sleep. I am a thousand winds that blow, I am the diamond glints on snow. I am the sun on ripened grain, I am the gentle autumn rain.

When you awaken in the morning's hush, I am the swift uplifting rush of quiet birds in circled flight. I am the soft stars that shine at night.

Do not stand at my grave and cry. I am not there, I did not die.

-Mary Elizabeth Frye-


22 April 2017

My (updated) Latin American* reading list

My plan to travel in South America this year has dramatically changed my reading list. I have always considered myself a fairly well-rounded and indiscriminate reader although even as I typed those words, I realised that it is not true of my reading habits. I probably could pick up a book in almost any genre and be able to conjure up interest and get through the book. I probably could, but I don't. Not anymore, anyway. I'd like to think that I have got more discerning as I have gotten older and wiser. The truth is though, there are just too many books and too little time. If I am going to have to choose, then I choose well written books which subject matters interest, fascinate or move me.

My Latin American reading has somewhat thrown a spanner in those works. Travel writing as a genre is not the richest. Limiting it to a continent, or rather, the few countries on the continent that are highest on my list, narrows my choices much, much more. I have decided that I cannot afford to be too picky and will just have to go with what I can get my hands on and make the best of it. 

General fiction presents a different problem. Here, I simply do not know enough about authors and titles. And there are so many to choose from. I have been looking at list of best sellers, most populars, readers choices and so on, but the reviews are so varied that it's pretty much any one's guess to know how good or not any book is. Buying from charity shops randomises the books I end up tremendously. It turns out to be a good thing, so far. I have not yet read anything (from a grand list of 3 books) which I consider a waste of time.

Update (22 April 2017): the list has now grown past 3 books. Having not encountered any more random books in charity shops, I have had to resort to bookdepository, my go-to online book sotre, and actual book stores for new titles. 

Read thus far:


1. Aunt Julia and the Scriptwriter - Mario Vargas Llosa
(Sidewalk book sale on the Upper West Side in New York)

The narrative alternates between the life of Marito, the young, sometime law student and news editor at a radio station as he befriends the new scriptwriter at the station and falls in love with Aunt Julia; and the passionate and almost incredible stories produced by the scriptwriter.

The protaganist in one of the short stories was a travelling salesman of some kind who gave up his trade when he got himself a wife because he could not bear to be away from home. It occured to me then how huge South America is. My perception of sizes of countries has changed quite a bit since living in Sweden, but I had not given much thought to the sheer size of South America until now. That story really made me realise that we are going to have to be very careful about not overestimating how much ground we would be able to cover on the trip, especially since I am hoping to travel by land for most of it. Half a centimetre on the map could easily mean a 6-hour bus ride!

After having read Isabel Allende´s My Invented Country (no. 6 below), I was delighted to discover in the portrait of the author section at the end that this book is one of Allende's favourite reads.


2. What the Moon Saw - Laura Resau
(Sidewalk book sale on the Upper West Side in New York)

A book for younger readers, the story follows Clara as she travels to mountains of Mexico to visit grandparents she has never met and learns to embrace her heritage.




3. Full Circle: A South American Journey - Luis Sepúlveda
(MPH warehous sale, Malaysia many, many, many years ago)

A random collection of anecdotes from the authors' travel throughout South America, giving tiny glimpses into the political struggles prevalent on the continent though I found it a bit hard to follow because there was no coherent geographical or chronological thread.


4. The Old Patagonian Express - Paul Theroux
(Bought new - it seems to be a must-read when it comes to South American travels, so here goes.)

Traces the author's train journey from Boston to Patagonia. The book begins with an astute observation that most travel stories begin with the author's arrival at their destination, although the journey to get there must also be fascinating in it's own right. For this trip, I am curious about the planning and preparation, which even Paul does not go into much except to say that he learnt Spanish. Also, I know that for me, a lot goes on in my mind leading up to a big trip. My departure gate thoughts before the flight to China was just a fraction of all that went through my mind leading up to the trip, not to mention my observations in-flight which were not really captured anywhere.

I'm at page 60 of this book now, and he's just crossed the border into Mexico and has already made observations on the remarkable cultural differences south of the border, but also on the evident hyprocrisy of some of the perception north of the border. Hmm... observations which could have well been made today. 
(Added 4th March) At page 246, he's just leaving Panama and the Canal and is heading into Columbia on the eve of their presidential elections during which riots are promised.

This book, more than any of the others I have read thus far, awakes the travel bug in me. I just want to grab a notebook and pen, and jump on a train. Train journeys have always fascinated me. It blows my mind that from here in Sweden, I can get on a train and, with a change or two, get off in Italy, Greece, Russia. And even, with a few more transfers and many more days, end up at home. Train stations, so much more that any other kind of travel hub, represent to me endless possibilities.
More on my thoughts about this book, see: The Old Patagonian Express - a personal reflection.


 5. Inca Kola: A Traveller's Tale of Peru - Matthew Parris
(Random choice based on bookdepository.com and goodreads reviews.)

This is definitely one of my better random choices. It starts of threatening to be a tale of idiotic backpackers off for a series of near misses. While there were a fair number of near misses and a few non-misses (one of the group sadly ended up in hospital with severe food poisoning), there is nothing idiotic about any of the tales. On the contrary, it is mature and insightful. Very similar to the Old Patagonian Express is style and content, on a much more limited scale, so described in far more detail. Being a group, the experiences recounted are more varied, was a lot more adventurous and sought out the more physical and challenging terrain and were none too picky about their mode of transportation. They took the roads less travelled and tried to avoid the more touristy routes, and in so doing travel through rural Peru through villages with seemingly no contact with civilisation. The poverty is palpable throughout.

One thing I take away from this book, amongst many others, is that there is something to be said for the touristy option. Before I was very reluctant to take an organised tour, but I have come to acknowledge that, at times, it might be the better option. Organised, reliable public infrastructure may not be easily available, and there is no need to subject ourselves to extreme discomfort for the sake of the experience, to save a few dollars, or to avoid other tourists.




6. My Invented Country, A Memoir - Isabel Allende
(Came across during search for books on Chile - written by Isabel Allende, how could I not read it?)

Allende is a gifted storyteller. The first few pages of the introduction alone made me laugh out loud and moved me almost to tears. This is a memoir of Chile, or her relationship with Chile, but not a travel memoir. It gives some insight to life and society in Chile, or rather a segment of Chilean society in Santiago and Chilean exiles perhaps, but not much more. As far as memoirs go, it was also rather superficial on the emotional front, lacking the gut wrenching poignancy of, for example, Paula. For me personally, it was also a bit of a history lesson, as I knew next to nought about Chilean history or society.


7. Ways of Going Home - Alejandro Zambra

(A random choice based on reviews on goodreads and bookdepository. But I had also read about Alejandro Zambra in an article about Chilean authors.)

This is fiction, set of course against a background of historical events. I am beginning to get the impression that it is impossible to tell a tale about Chile or set in Chile, without talking about Allende - the political figure, not the writer, or Pinochet. And that perhaps says a lot about the country and its society. I really liked this book, though I suspect I will never be much fond of the novella as a storytelling medium. I long for the depth and detail of a novel.

The thing that this booked opened my eyes to about Chile and Santiago is earthquakes! Paul Theroux mentioned earthquakes in the course of his books, and how some cities seem to be a collection of earthquake damaged and patched-up buildings but I somehow did not do the math and realise that I was going to those places. The impression I got from the novella is that earthquakes are not a one-off ultra rare occurrence in Santiago. Neither are they an everyday occurrence, I don't think. Although, I recall now that Isabel Allende mentioned in her book that Chileans learn to keep glasses and other breakables in the bottom cupboards in the kitchen because of earthquakes. I am not sure what to make of it, but I suppose it will be something I should keep in mind. Might be good to look into dos and don't in case of tremors. Should one still seek shelter in doorways or under sturdy tables?

8. The Gringo Trail - Mark Mann
(Reluctantly bought on bookdepository. Reluctantly because the drug-ridden backpacker trail is not really what I am after. I eventually bought it because this book appears on every South America travel writing list, almost, and I thought it might be good to know where not to go and what not to do.)

There were so many things I did not like about this book, I do not even know where to start. This is the first time I have seriously been tempted to throw a book away. Not just that I part company with the book. I wanted to tear it up and recycle the paper.

I never thought that I grew up sheltered, but the extent which the drug culture is a part of their every day lives was shocking. The book marginally redeemed itself, most notably when they were hiking and therefore temporarily drug free. Other than that, there is nothing I take away from this book other than a confirmation (not that I needed it) that it is indeed very easy to get hold of a variety of recreational drugs in South America. I suppose it did provide information on where not to go in South America, and if I do go to some places, where not to stay. Not that any of those places are part of my immediate plans anyway. Oh yes, I also learnt that there really is no limit to stupidity of the human race. Thank you God that you made us all different.

Do not read this book unless you need tips on getting high in South America. It would otherwise be a waste of time.


9. By Night in Chile - Roberto Bolaño

(Another random purchase, based on goodreads and bookdepository recommendations, bought at the same time as Zambra´s Ways of Going Home)

Another novella. To some extent I am understanding the allure of the novella a bit more. This was written, except for the end, without paragraphs. It made it hard to follow as he rambles on from topic to topic, from memory to hallucination. But I suppose that fits in with the narrative of an old dying man, clearly with a lot of regret.

The inevitable theme of Chile´s troubled political past is ever present, but this time in secret and looming threat of communism. I have so far leaned away from books that are too historical and political, choosing instead to focus on the society and people. So I have a jigsaw puzzle knowledge of Chile's political past, with no real picture of factual events and their chronology although Isabel Allende´s Memoirs did give a good overview. Still, my journey in books was not intended to be a history lesson. But it is apparent that Chilean society and its people are intrinsically and intractably linked to its past, as is with most nations and societies. I'm now curious to read something contemporary, based in the present to see whether the political currents runs just as deep.


Currently reading:
The Sky Over Lima by Juan Gómez Bárcena
A bit over half-way and liking it very much so far.


Waiting in the wings:

1. The Vintage Book of Latin American Stories (a collection of short stories)
2. Three Letters from the Andes - Patrik Leigh Fermor (recommended by Daunt Books)

3. Chile: Travels in a Thin Country - Sara Wheeler

4. In Patagonia - Bruce Chatwin

Recommendations of books about or from South America, especially Chile, Peru and Boliva very welcome!

Recommendations so far:
- I, Rigobertá Menchú (Guatemala)
- Like Water for Chocolate (Mexico)
- Blindness José Saramago (Portugal, so not really per brief but sounds good nonetheless!)
- Three Trapped Tigers (Cuba)
- The Farm on the River of Emeralds (Ecuador)
- The Private Lives of Trees (Chile)
- Motorcycle Diaries
- Traveling with Che Guevara


*My reading list includes Mexican influences, so it would not be entirely accurate to say South American. 

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